Claremont Canyon and Temescal Canyon are big excavations into the rising Oakland Hills, and each is a traffic corridor. Between them is a smaller valley — a gulch, really — that I think is pretty distinctive, enough so to merit the title of canyon. I name it Vicente Canyon, after the stream running down it, Vicente Creek. All three canyons feed their runoff to Temescal Creek, as shown here in the county’s watershed map.
Take a close look at it (click it to see full size). The land surface is shown as a digital elevation model, and without all the distracting street names and such, some things are obvious. All three canyons are defined by the Hayward fault, which runs from top center to lower right. The hills on the east side are being pushed up, and the ridgetop is around 1300-1400 feet elevation. Vicente Canyon has only a slightly smaller elevation range, but it’s much shorter; that is, its slope is steeper. The two bigger canyons are long. Their streams, Claremont Creek and Temescal Creek, have stretches that are almost level, but not Vicente Creek. It’s working harder than its neighbors.
Here’s a thing people may not get about streams: they only erode and cut down their own narrow streambeds. Other than that, all they do is carry away what falls into them. As the Oakland Hills rise, the streams that drain them are compelled to keep cutting straight down to the level of the land at the fault, which is the local base level. This is a very effective process, geologically almost instantaneous — for example, you’ll notice that wherever tributaries join a larger stream, they always meet at the same level. The big stream is the base level for the little one.
Vicente Canyon has extra-steep walls that are ready to slide, and as I’ve explored this valley in recent weeks I’ve seen a lot of landsliding. Here’s a little example from high up in the catchment, on the unbuilt extension of Kenilworth Road.
A scoop of hillside has slumped and rotated on a curving underground surface. The tree died when its roots were torn off.
Down by the creek itself, the slopes are even steeper. This bit of Westview Drive suffered a fresh debris slide (what’s typically called a mudslide) just last winter, next to an older one.
The state’s official geologic hazard map corroborates me. Here’s the area that includes Vicente Canyon. The blue tint signifies areas at high risk of landslides.
The diagonal strip is the official “earthquake fault zone” defined by the state and the black line inside it is the trace of the Hayward fault. With that in mind, look at the digital elevation model of the same area.
See how the stream bends as it approaches the fault? It’s a great illustration of what the fault does to the landscape. The bottom side is moving leftward an average of about 10 millimeters a year. (The uplift part I referred to earlier is more like 1 mm/yr.) Humans can’t perceive movement that slow, but streams feel it as surely as we feel an escalator.
The rocks in Vicente Canyon are almost entirely mudstone of the same vintage as the rocks of Shepherd Canyon.
They’re rarely seen, though. They quickly turn back into the clayey sand they started from, as exposed in this excavation on Westview Place.
Once the creek crosses the fault, everything changes. The rock there is Franciscan sandstone, somewhat harder. The stream becomes a rocky gorge that winds through wooded yards for a few hundred meters to its junction with Temescal Creek, which is now culverted. The neighborhood is different, but not without its own charm.
All of Oakland’s high hill neighborhoods stack elaborate houses along narrow roads on steep, not-too-stable slopes, but because of its underlying configuration, the Vicente Canyon neighborhood is even more like that. At its best it presents a picture of architectural and engineering heroics in a lovely woodsy frame.
And especially along the canyon’s upper walls, the views across the fault to the San Francisco Bay basin are luxurious.
But the Vicente Canyon Hillside Open Space, a couple acres of oak woods between Vicente Road and Gravatt Drive, is a fine place for spry visitors. The locals manage a foundation that tends the land as a fire barrier.
Its benches have million-dollar views and none of the hassles of living up there.