Archive for the ‘Leona volcanics’ Category

Vicente Canyon

16 October 2023

Claremont Canyon and Temescal Canyon are big excavations into the rising Oakland Hills, and each is a traffic corridor. Between them is a smaller valley — a gulch, really — that I think is pretty distinctive, enough so to merit the title of canyon. I name it Vicente Canyon, after the stream running down it, Vicente Creek. All three canyons feed their runoff to Temescal Creek, as shown here in the county’s watershed map.

Take a close look at it (click it to see full size). The land surface is shown as a digital elevation model, and without all the distracting street names and such, some things are obvious. All three canyons are defined by the Hayward fault, which runs from top center to lower right. The hills on the east side are being pushed up, and the ridgetop is around 1300-1400 feet elevation. Vicente Canyon has only a slightly smaller elevation range, but it’s much shorter; that is, its slope is steeper. The two bigger canyons are long. Their streams, Claremont Creek and Temescal Creek, have stretches that are almost level, but not Vicente Creek. It’s working harder than its neighbors.

Here’s a thing people may not get about streams: they only erode and cut down their own narrow streambeds. Other than that, all they do is carry away what falls into them. As the Oakland Hills rise, the streams that drain them are compelled to keep cutting straight down to the level of the land at the fault, which is the local base level. This is a very effective process, geologically almost instantaneous — for example, you’ll notice that wherever tributaries join a larger stream, they always meet at the same level. The big stream is the base level for the little one.

Vicente Canyon has extra-steep walls that are ready to slide, and as I’ve explored this valley in recent weeks I’ve seen a lot of landsliding. Here’s a little example from high up in the catchment, on the unbuilt extension of Kenilworth Road.


A scoop of hillside has slumped and rotated on a curving underground surface. The tree died when its roots were torn off.

Down by the creek itself, the slopes are even steeper. This bit of Westview Drive suffered a fresh debris slide (what’s typically called a mudslide) just last winter, next to an older one.

The state’s official geologic hazard map corroborates me. Here’s the area that includes Vicente Canyon. The blue tint signifies areas at high risk of landslides.

The diagonal strip is the official “earthquake fault zone” defined by the state and the black line inside it is the trace of the Hayward fault. With that in mind, look at the digital elevation model of the same area.

See how the stream bends as it approaches the fault? It’s a great illustration of what the fault does to the landscape. The bottom side is moving leftward an average of about 10 millimeters a year. (The uplift part I referred to earlier is more like 1 mm/yr.) Humans can’t perceive movement that slow, but streams feel it as surely as we feel an escalator.

The rocks in Vicente Canyon are almost entirely mudstone of the same vintage as the rocks of Shepherd Canyon.

They’re rarely seen, though. They quickly turn back into the clayey sand they started from, as exposed in this excavation on Westview Place.

Once the creek crosses the fault, everything changes. The rock there is Franciscan sandstone, somewhat harder. The stream becomes a rocky gorge that winds through wooded yards for a few hundred meters to its junction with Temescal Creek, which is now culverted. The neighborhood is different, but not without its own charm.

All of Oakland’s high hill neighborhoods stack elaborate houses along narrow roads on steep, not-too-stable slopes, but because of its underlying configuration, the Vicente Canyon neighborhood is even more like that. At its best it presents a picture of architectural and engineering heroics in a lovely woodsy frame.

And especially along the canyon’s upper walls, the views across the fault to the San Francisco Bay basin are luxurious.

But the Vicente Canyon Hillside Open Space, a couple acres of oak woods between Vicente Road and Gravatt Drive, is a fine place for spry visitors. The locals manage a foundation that tends the land as a fire barrier.

Its benches have million-dollar views and none of the hassles of living up there.

Return to Pine Top

25 April 2022

A brief visit to Mills College for the recent pow wow reminded me of some business — not unfinished business, but rather an inquiry ready to renew. The upper end of the Mills grounds is very different from the lush central campus with its beautiful floodplain setting, and it has the possibilities of bedrock and fault-related findings. And it’s been seven years. To refresh our memories, here’s the geologic map.


Pine Top is labeled Jb next to Lake Aliso at the east end of Mills College. Qpaf, Pleistocene alluvium (the Fan); Qhaf, modern alluvium; Jsv, Leona volcanics (Jurassic); Jb, basalt; Jgb, gabbro

I’ve always wondered about Pine Top. It stands up so steeply and dramatically at the foot of the high hills, right on the Hayward fault (which is poorly localized here). The digital elevation model of the hill makes it look as if it had been quarried, and indeed there are records of a quarry on the college land.

I’ve also wondered about Pine Top because the basalt “Jb” is hard to find, and I came up empty on my first visit. The hill appeared to be fully mantled in soil.

The campus is especially pretty right now. I hope they can get past their problems and resume their long successful history in Oakland.

Lake Aliso is its usual self, thanks to the late-season rains.

Supposedly the lake is a sag basin related to the Hayward fault, but I’m starting to think that it owes its existence entirely to damming.

This old photo of the lake, from around 1893, shows the side of Pine Top nicely forested in oaks, which would not be the case had there been a quarry there. I think the quarry was located north of the lake where the freeway now runs.

Source

This time I found the original footpath up the hill. Students used to have costumed processions up this path, bearing torches and regalia.

At the top, they would assemble around the Hearth and enjoy their celebrations.

Maybe some alumnae with long memories can add comments about how it used to be.

The view from the top has closed in as the trees have grown, but in the old days it was surely fine.

But anyway, this time I found bedrock — well, pieces of it, around the big microwave tower that was emplaced up here since my last visit. Here they are arranged for a portrait. I also found a little in the old footpath.

This is not basalt by any means, not even a highly altered basalt. This is the highly altered ash of the Leona volcanics, what the old-time geologists with their eyeballs and hand lenses called the Leona Rhyolite. That calls into question not only the “Jb” label for Pine Top, but the whole stripe of Jb drawn on the geologic map. Just some more things to go and check out this summer.

The pyrite orebody of Leona Heights

10 May 2021

Through historical accident (or fate), I’ve been a longtime reader of the late Oakland fiction author Jack Vance. As it happens, Vance was exposed to geology by coursework in mining engineering at UC Berkeley, and one of the most charming and memorable features of his Planet of Adventure series, written in the late 1960s, was the mineralogical currency of the planet Tschai, called sequins.

In volume 3 of the four-book series, we learn that sequins grow in a locality controlled by the alien Dirdir species, who amuse, enrich and feed themselves by hunting the sequin hunters. Sequins come in a range of colors, the clear ones being worth the least and the rare purple ones the most. I no longer have the text in front of me, but I remember them growing out of the ground, literally cropping out. Over at Tor.com, reviewer Paul Weimer does have (and loves) the text and reveals the additional detail that sequins consist of “a uranium mineral called chrysospine.”

The name is mineralogical fantasy, and possibly misleading in that “chryso-” refers to a golden or light green color. But come to think of it, uranium impurities often turn minerals brown from radiation damage, and radiation damage to an originally clear or golden mineral might result in a fair purple by analogy with “sun ripened” glass. An analogy with ripening fruit, too, is irresistible.

In populating his planet with this precious crystalline substance that grows in the ground like mushrooms, Vance evokes truly ancient geological notions that are natural among people who know nothing beyond the most basic alchemy. Gold Rush California saw a lot of that pre-industrial thinking among the amateur prospectors who scoured the state, and the Cornish miners who worked in the hard-rock Mother Lode mines brought along their own ancient customs and superstitions.

In Oakland, the people who exploited the pyrite in the Leona Heights mining district didn’t have the advantage of magic. But Fritz Boehmer, the canny Prussian immigrant who spearheaded mining in these hills, was apparently prone to dreams of earthly wealth, a deep California trait. He was not especially well educated, having apprenticed in metalworking. When he learned of the ore underneath his ocher deposit — one story is that he was digging postholes for a cattle fence, another that “a Japanese” was seeking water for a large fish pond — he thought he had an iron and copper mine, but the professionals set him straight. The copper was only a few percent (although later it was by-produced in paying quantities) and the iron was waste; the money from pyrite (FeS2) was in the sulfur. He let the Stauffer Chemical Company run the mines and gave scientists of the time free access to them.


Pyrite on quartz

The mines ran, interrupted by fires, for about 30 years starting in the 1890s. There were at least three of them. Records are confusing and I’m still trying to sort them out.

The best ore in Leona Heights was in pods of hard, dark, solid pyrite yielding 50 percent clean sulfur that sat, like layers of frosting in a chocolate cake, within a zone 12 to 30 feet thick that tilted into the hillside. The people who published papers about this district scratched their heads at the deposits. They all concluded that the Leona volcanics (“Leona rhyolite” as they knew it) was so jammed with pyrite that the upper part weathered into iron oxides (which stayed behind as the ocherous “iron cap” or gossan) and iron sulfate, which leached down in solution and was reduced back to pyrite beneath the water table in the so-called vadose zone, where it was exposed to a lot of carbonaceous material.


Fine-grained pyrite concentrated in the Leona volcanics, Campus Drive

The trouble with the kind of intermittent research these geologists pursued in the operating mines is that each person who visited the workings saw a different set of rocks. The Leona Heights mines were also prone to fires, so parts were off limits for years at a time, or abandoned.

Henry Mulryan, in a 1925 Master’s thesis, summarized the previous work and consulted their authors, but with several parts of the mines closed off by fires he failed to find any of that carbon-rich rock in the areas he had access to. Unable to prove anything one way or the other, he was forced to punt, saying he would rather wait and see what further digging revealed at depth. “If the Leona Orebody is derived under vadose conditions, then it is the only one known to the writer and should take its place in the world’s literature on ore deposits.” (I too am skeptical about this carbonaceous rock, but the Oakland Hills are complicated here so who knows?)

That was a hundred years ago, before geologists made huge strides in understanding this class of “volcanogenic massive sulfide deposit,” not to mention a scientific revolution, in the years between then and now. Meanwhile the mines are long closed and will never be reopened. The samples, if they still exist, are gathering dust in obscure cabinets. I’ve read all the contemporary literature (except for some theses — Leona Heights seemed to be a handy subject for Stanford and Berkeley students at the time), which is an absorbing chore because the records are sketchy by modern standards and the terminology has changed. But there are rewards; Mulryan had some good photos of the Leona Heights sulfur mine circa 1924.


Looking west from the Leona Heights Sulfur Mine. The hook in the road is at the end of McDonell Avenue. The rail line carried ore cars to the crusher, then to a 1600-foot aerial tram that carried the ore to the train in Laundry Farm canyon. Chabot Observatory in the background.

I’m still scratching my head about the Leona Heights pyrite, and I find myself envying Jack Vance’s freedom of imagination. Reality can be tough; you can’t just make up something wonderful.